We got up early today and surfed Pipeline. The waves came up a little bit today, so we were out there at 6:30, which is still dark here. The waves weren't that big, but really fun and barely anybody out. I tried to take off late on one and pull in......but that wasn't a good idea. I had to straighten out and then got slammed. I went straight to the bottom and slammed my knee and then continued to get pinned on the bottom. Best thing to do is not freak out in that kind of situation. I actually came up laughing cause I made such a stupid mistake. I only got 2 scrapes on my knee, thank god, but right now it's a little swollen.
Next time now I know.....ha ha.
Geoff
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